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The tripod I used : a Cullmann Magic 2. I choosed
it mainly because if the column is not locked, it
can be freely rotated, thus avoiding the need of
a panoramic head. The top of the column is small
and minimizes touching up of spherical panoramas
to suppress the tripod. |
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A cardboard protractor with two scales, one every
20°, the other every 30° is taped to the
tripod, an index is taped to the rotating column.
The plate with the logo is a nice place to put
a bubble level to verify that the camera is rotating
in an horizontal plane. |
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This tripod is not the stiffest you can get,
but it is lightweight and very compact when folded.
And you can get rid of a bulky and heavy panoramic
head while keeping good precision in your shooting.
(for an even lighter solution, see my virtual
tripod method !). It can also be used as a monopod,
see for example John Wood's monopod
setup for panorama shooting. |
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My trusty L-bracket
was used for all fisheye (Nikon FC-E8) shots. |
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The same L-bracket
was also used for all portrait-mode (vertical) photos
(with or without Nikon WC-E24 wide angle adaptor).
But this time the Coolpix is fixed on the other
side of the bracket to rotate near nodal point.
(There is -among other tips- a list of Coolpix
nodal point positions at Dave and Pat's www.360texas.com) |
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A flash bracket was used to position the optical
axis of the camera over the rotating point for all
landscape-mode (horizontal) photos. |
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Automatic exposure is locked to avoid differences
of color or luminosity between adjacent images...
Remaining discrepancies between images is generally
caused by lens flare : try to avoid direct sunlight
on the lens, especially with the fisheye. |
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...and the "less contrast" mode is
used to try to maintain details in both high lights
and shadows. |
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